Kricket is a bar and restaurant occupying two railway arches on Atlantic Road, Brixton. Originally located round the corner in a shipping container at Pop Brixton, Kricket was founded by chef Will Bowlby and serves Indian food with a twist, based on the chef’s travels in India and the food and flavours he experienced there. The sharing plates menu is small, dictated by the size of the kitchen, but serves as a test bed for their two larger restaurants in Soho and the Television Centre at White City.
We started with the samphire pakora, served with tamarind and garlic mayonnaise. This dish was a winner; we both love samphire and to have it cooked like this was a new and delicious experience. We followed this with wild mushrooms served with pickled shimeji (actually a Japanese mushroom) and whole wheat puri; and Hyderabad baby aubergine served with coconut and curry leaf. Again both dishes offered something different to your more usual Indian cuisine, and had interesting and pleasing flavours.
Our final dishes were Keralan fried chicken with pickled mooli ( a white radish) and curry leaf mayonnaise, and Macher Johl – a curry made with cod and pickled fennel, accompanied by a Malabar paratha. Both dishes tasted absolutely delicious and showed the skill of the chef in developing the ingredients and flavours of Indian cuisine.
We didn’t have room for their only dessert, a sticky date pudding, because we’d eaten so much! The food bill was a very decent £45 and there was a good selection of reasonably priced wines and beers, as well as cocktails from the adjoining bar.
Kricket is well worth a visit – you’ll be really impressed with the food. Make sure to book though as it is really popular.